Above 63

I finally got my trip north in early May

I had been to North Iceland briefly in 2021, and when I moved to Reykjavik in August, it was the one place I knew I wanted to revisit. Every time I planned the trip, something got in the way. But this spring, when I knew I’d be returning to Iceland, I made sure to carve out a full week to explore Mývatn, Húsavík, Akureyri, and Laugarbakki.

Because I was traveling in Iceland, I came prepared for every type of weather: wind, rain, snow. But Iceland surprised me. It was sunny most days, with temperatures in the 60s and 70s. I came home with a tan.

Waterfalls and Beauty Fatigue

One of my top priorities was seeing Dettifoss again—one of the most powerful waterfalls in Europe. This time, I couldn’t get quite as close. Snow still covered the lower path, and the west side was closed. Still, the views were stunning.

That’s the problem in Iceland–you start to experience beauty fatigue. There are so many incredible scenes. It becomes the norm rather than the exception. You find yourself nonchalantly saying: “Oh, another beautiful waterfall.” I was out to see Dettifoss and other waterfalls as well. I lingered at each of these spaces–needless to say, I saw a lot of water go by me.

Akureyri–The Capital of the North

Akureyri is one of the most charming small cities I’ve visited. Even the traffic lights—famous for their heart-shaped signals—seem to encourage you to stop and stay a while. It’s a destination in its own right, a cruise port, and a great base for northern excursions. As an urban geographer, I couldn’t help myself—I ended up taking about 100 photos of the city center. I’ll share just a few, along with images from a hike in the nearby national forest.

I had wanted to see Hvitserkur. It was listed in a number of guides I had read. My surprise was when I made the turn to get there and it was a 30 km dirt road. This is why you get the SUV and all the insurances on the rental vehicle. I had to stop a few places on the way in to take in the views, and the destination was worth it. When I walked onto the beach to get a ground level shot of Hvitserkur I was surprised to see dozens of seals sitting on a shoal just offshore.

Small Surprises: Parks, Villages, and Lambs

There were some surprise sites as well. I found a park called Hofdi. There were a lot of big tourist spots nearby. However, this park had terrific views of rock formations in Lake Mývatn. I pretty much had the space to myself–including the black sand beach on the lake. I was driving along and I was able to stop and see a beautiful red hill. I walked around an old fishing village for a bit and got to see some lambs on the hoof.

Spring through fall is whale-watching season, and it’s easy to catch a glimpse of these giant mammals. If you’re dining locally, you may see whale or puffin on the menu—but know that locals rarely eat these. They’re offered mostly for tourists. I recommend sticking to Arctic char, cod, salmon, or lamb—all local, all excellent.

At times Iceland feels like another planet (yes, there are science fiction shows shot here). One of the places I got back to that was like that was Hverir. It is an active geothermal area with a large number of bubbling mud pots. I was mesmerized by them and not bothered by the smell–but if you read reviews–the odor is a problem for many. Be careful–you can get close enough to this to get hurt.

I know a number of sites offer ring road trips of 7 or 8 days. Although it can be done in that amount of time, I think that taking Iceland slowly or in parts is better than rushing through the whole country. I spent 8 days in the North alone. When I was on the whale watching boat, I met a woman from France who had the right idea. She had been on the road for 21 days and commented that she “only” had another 10 days to see the west part of the country. She asked me if she had enough time. I told her she was doing it right. This is how to travel Iceland.

When I return again, I’m thinking about an extended stay in the Westfjords—which were stunning when I visited in the fall—and a visit to Vestmannaeyjar (the Westman Islands). And of course, more time in Reykjavik.