Above 63

Their absence is a complex thing that I’m still wrapping my head around

I am not old enough to remember a time without McDonald’s but I do remember when Starbucks was not ubiquitous on the landscape (as well as most franchise restaurants). Both McDonald’s and Starbucks are missing here in Iceland along with most of their competitors. Although I am not bothered by this, this absence of outlets on the fast food landscape is conspicuous. I’ve heard several plausible explanations but I can’t settle on just one. My former students reading this might remember that I have more than a passing fancy on this topic since I taught my Human Geography class with the book Fast Food Nation by Eric Schlosser as a core text for several years. Fast Food and the cultural landscape is one of my favorite things to write and talk about.

Like most things, McDonald’s arrival, departure, and absence is complicated. The chain arrived here in the early 90s and opened 3 outlets. The beef was sourced locally. However, during the financial crisis in 2008 there was a meat shortage and it had to be sourced from outside the country. The imported food was so expensive that McDonald’s could not turn a profit and closed. It has not returned to Iceland since. I suspect there was more than just supply chain contributing to that decision. As you talk to locals, there is a strong affection for local establishments. That may not always hold as my friend tells me that his children love McDonald’s when they travel.

The other Fulbright folks and I gather at Tommie’s Burgers on Tuesday night for its special (Burger, Fries, and drink for 2000 ISK). I have a particular fondness for a local place called Silli kokkur because I like the gooseburger. There are lots of small nooks like those that offer for good burgers that McDonald’s can’t match. Iceland is one of 15 countries without a McDonald’s. Let’s also remember the Icelandic hot dog. With all due respects to my friends in New York, Detroit, and Chicago an Icelandic hot dog wrapped in bacon is a thing of beauty.

On the coffee front, Starbucks is entering Iceland in 2025. Unlike McDonald’s, its primary product can’t be sourced locally. The outlet will be located in downtown Reykjavik and will probably do well with tourists. Whether it will catch on with locals remains to be seen. Dunkin was here and failed. They have been drinking coffee here since 1703 and there is a strong coffee culture on the streets and in the offices. Lots of small cafes and outlets that are very different from their American versions. The beverages are smaller and the bakery is fresher and is better “crafted.” The coffee is served in a real cup–often with a saucer. More importantly cafes are social spaces for the community to hang out and gather on a sunny afternoon.

To be sure there is American fast food here–but many of the big names are missing (Burger King, Popeye’s, Dunkin, and Little Caesar’s). Still some chains have succeeded here despite the challenges created by the geographic isolation and the higher transportation costs for importing commodities. For instance, KFC and Domino’s proudly use Icelandic products in their food to hold down costs. Still a bucket of chicken from the Colonel is 3200 ISK and a large pepperoni from Dominos is about 4200 ISK.

I think the number and quality of food halls is a serious competition factor for potential chain restaurants. There are 4 within the downtown area offering high quality burgers, tacos, sushi, ramen, pizza, and more. I’ve found them on the road as well and I’ve enjoyed great meals served on real plates using real cutlery. Not only are the plates nicer to eat from, but they are more environmentally friendly.

If you know me, I seldom go to fast food chains back home. If I want a great fast food burger I will go to Kopps or Solly‘s. When it comes to coffee, you can find me at Colectivo, Stone Creek or Anodyne. Likewise when I travel, I want interesting places with great choices. I’m grabbing my burgers at Tommie’s, Silli kokkur, and Hagavagninn.  My coffee is at Kaffihús Vesturbæjar or Hygge Coffee in a real cup with a saucer.  I think I am going to miss a land without McDonald’s and the others like them.