Above 63

Less About Me, More About the Lighthouse

Beyond my own experience in Part 1, White Shoal Lighthouse deserves a post of its own. It originally went into service on September 1, 1910 and was built to protect the growing freighter traffic through the Straits of Mackinac.The lighthouse has guided ships around the treacherous shoal for over 115 years, but station itself is being rescued and guided by two entrepreneurs who are working to restore it after years of neglect. White Shoal was purchased at auction in 2016 by Brent Tompkins and Mike Lynch for $110,009 from the General Services Administration. A more complete history of the lighthouse was written by Terry Pepper.

Abandonment and Restoration

When the station was automated and the Coast Guard departed in 1976, all the infrastructure was removed — plumbing, heating, electric, furniture, and fixtures. This, combined with 40 years of abandonment, took a heavy toll.

Although signs of neglect remain, what shines through is the vast amount of work that has been done to make the station safe and livable for volunteers and visitors.

Walking through, every light, every outlet, every switch, the running water, the bathrooms, the appliances, and the furniture have all been brought in over the past several years. Imagine a 5,000-square-foot building in your neighborhood that had been abandoned for four decades and what it would take to restore it. Now imagine that everything you need must be transported by a 45-minute boat ride across Lake Michigan. Add in the relentless wind, rain, snow, and ice, plus a short work season from late May to mid-September, and the scope of restoration becomes even more impressive.

The Goal

Brent Tompkins told me that the goal is to continue restoring the station and make it accessible to the public. That statement is bigger than it sounds. This is a challenging location to repair and maintain, and making it safe and welcoming is a significant achievement.

Not all lighthouse owners have the same vision or capability. Not far from White Shoal are two lighthouses that tell different stories: Gray’s Reef, owned by a private collector, has been kept closed with little upkeep. Waugoshance Lighthouse, decommissioned and used for target practice during WWII, was too damaged for successful restoration despite attempts.

What is the Lighthouse Like?

The lighthouse today is comfortable, well equipped, and still a work in progress. The basics — and more — are in place, though the isolation and unpredictable weather remain constant realities. My own trip was delayed a day because of storms, and even on a calm day, the 20-mile boat ride takes about 90 minutes.

• Power is supplied by a set of generators on the main deck. It supplies power for lights, refrigeration, and appliances
• Running water. Lake water is pumped through the station for washing and sanitation.
• Modern bathrooms are in place and operational.

• The kitchen is well equipped and well stocked. Although there are regular food deliveries as people come on and off the station, bad weather can cancel supply trips. I think I could have stayed there a few weeks with the supplies on hand.
• Tools and other supplies are in the storeroom on the main deck. The hardware store is a long way off if something needs an immediate repair.

• Internet is available through Starlink and is more reliable than cell service.

Deck by Deck and Vertical Living

Living on the station is all about climbing stairs. The kitchen and dining is on deck 2, sleeping rooms are on the decks above, and trips up and down the stairs are purposeful. A sign on the main deck reminds visitors not to ascend the stairs empty handed. My step counter can detect vertical rise. I was averaging about 30 flights of stairs a day. Here is a look at the station from the top down.

Lantern Room (Deck 10)

The Lantern Room was my favorite space on the station. The views were always spectacular and it is the reason the station exists. A modern lantern is in place and is solar powered. The original Fresnel lens was removed and is on display at the Whitefish Point Light Museum.

Deck 9: Parapet Access

Deck 9 is a small deck that mostly holds Coast Guard equipment, but the real thrill is the hatch that opens to the parapet and the narrow walkway outside. Stepping out there, you’re instantly aware of the height and the wind. There’s also a small ladder up to the outside of the lantern room on deck 10.

Deck 8: Old Watch Room

A pleasant space for work and socializing, even if electricity hasn’t been extended here yet. I liked the simplicity — I was reminded of the time when this was the watch room for the station.

Deck 7: Coffee and Views

Deck 7 is newly fitted with electricity, furniture, and a coffee bar. It is both comfortable and pleasant. Standing in the center you can see out windows in 4 directions.

Deck 6: Queen Sleeping Room

Deck 6 is essentially one of the queen sleeping rooms and a passageway between deck 5 and 7. The curve of the walls in the sleeping room enhances the charm of the space

Deck 5: Single Rooms and Sitting Area

Deck 5 has 2 single sleeping rooms decorated with small items that reflect the history of the station. A small sitting area just outside those rooms

Deck 4: Sleeping Rooms and Half Bath

Deck 4 has 2 more single rooms. I stayed in one of these rooms during my visit. The most attractive feature of this deck is that there is a half bath here. I was so grateful to not ascended and descend a stairway in the middle of the night.

Deck 3: Social and Work Space

Deck 3 has a large open space for socializing and hanging out. There is also a queen sleeping room. While I was there deck 3 was a reminder that the renovation of the station was “a work in progress.” A portion of the deck held tools and supplies for “the next project.”

Deck 2: Hub of Activity

Deck 2 was always the center of things as several important features are located here. These included the full bath and shower, the head keeper’s quarters, and the well-equipped kitchen and dining area. The kitchen was far better than I expected, well equipped and ready for serious meals. Had I known, I would have come prepared with more cooking ideas. A hatch here opens to a wraparound deck, less intimidating than Deck 9’s parapet. It became one of my favorite places to sit and read outside.

Deck 1: Main Deck and Boathouse

The boathouse and workshop dominate this level, with storage, refrigerators, freezers, and the mechanical systems that keep the station running. Every time I walked through, I felt like I was looking at the station’s future: the tools and supplies waiting for their turn in the restoration.

Going outside on the main deck often feels like standing on the deck of ship. Even though the station is not moving, there is an illusion of movement because of the waves rolling by. There are exit ladders on all 4 sides. Two cranes assist moving items off boats and onto the main deck–only one is currently operational. Each of the corners of the deck faces a cardinal direction. The deck is a great place to sit out and read, watch the sunrise or sunset. It is especially good for stargazing.

I would recommend a stay at White Shoal Lighthouse to anyone either as a volunteer or a guest. It is a unique experience and the owners have renovated the space to be comfortable and accommodating (if you can do stairs). It will only be better for you than when I visited because of the work that continually is going into it. To learn more about supporting the lighthouse’s restoration or visiting opportunities, see the White Shoal Light Historical Preservation Society.